Monday, March 24, 2014

Odds and Ends, and Bits and Pieces

I have so much going in-progress right now, I barely know where to start! Let's see...

I have started revamping the purple plaid regency dress again. I had it all finished and put together, and when I put it on...I hated it. It just didn't fit the same, the waist was too low, the skirt was unflattering, it was just...buh. So, I decided that I was just going to completely change everything. Instead of regency, it's now going to be a Teens afternoon dress, along the same lines as my Titanic dress.

Once it was on the dress form, I decided to put it on hold until I could make my 1910 over bust corset.

So, I started on some undies! I completely fell in love with this princess petticoat in the Met's collection :

I need this thing in my life. I had a little bit of muslin left on the bolt that I bought at the beginning of the year, so I drafted out the body directly onto the cotton.

The top line is my bust/4+2". I measured down to my hip line and measured out my hip/4+2". I then connected the marks with a curved line, down to the bottom line. I just guesstimated where the end of the petticoat's body should land, there wasn't any exact measuring done, so I made the body 20" long.

This was my first time setting in lace, but it was very easy, if a bit time consuming. Thankfully, I had a Feline Supervisor to make sure things went well.

He's a good supervisor, because the lace turned out very well!

The skirt/ruffle ended up shorter than I intended because I miscalculated, and only accounted for one set of tucks instead of two. ^^; So, once I buy another bolt of muslin, I'm going to lengthen the skirt ruffle and hide the join with some more lace.

Also, Teens undies EAT LACE. I bought 18 yards, and I still ran out before I was finished! And I'm only one shoulder strap away! Gah!

I haven't started on my 1910 corset yet, but I have been working on a new 1880s corset, since I have a couple of different bustle events in the near future. I sized up the pattern from Corsets and Crinolines, and used the same gold silk from my Stash that I used for my Regency capote. I also cut out a layer of drill to strengthen the silk, and treated the two layers of fabric as one during construction.

I had debated omitting the cording that was on the original corset, but then I remembered how much I really enjoyed doing the cording on my short stays, so I kept it. I decided to do all my top stitching in burgundy, which I thought would compliment the gold silk nicely.

I had made this corset pattern before, when I made my stripey corset some time back, but it had never really fit properly as I didn't have much experience sizing things up. It was far too small for me, and while I had been able to wear it (with a very large lacing gap), I had never been really happy with it.

So, I am sacrificing it to the costuming gods and cannibalizing the boning from it, since I already know it will fit the pattern! It will also save me money, since I won't have to shell out more money for a new spoon busk.

I decided to do the boning channels on the outside of the corset purely for aesthetic reasons. It also made doing the cording on the front much easier, since I wouldn't have to figure in a gap in the cording to accommodate boning channels; I can just stitch right over the cording now and slide the steel over the cords.

As of right now, the corset is entirely assembled, all the boning is in place, and I have started to bind the edges. I'm debating whether to use bound eyelets or grommets, and if I use grommets, to set them into the fabric directly or to use lacing bones. (I used lacing bones in my Elizabethan stays, and I they're fabulous.)

Other things will also be in the works soon, as well! I have the fabric ready and waiting for a new Teens suit, I need to finish the Starfleet bustle gown once my new corset is finished, and I am going to finally, finally make the teal and black striped bustle dress for an upcoming Costumer's Guild event! More goodies to come!

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